Everything You’ll Need

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Step 1: Prepare the Space

Remove Baseboards and Old Flooring

Start by taking out any old flooring and baseboards to see the subfloor. This gives you a clean start and helps the hardwood fit well.

Use a pry bar to gently take off baseboards, being careful not to harm the drywall so you can put them back later. Remove old carpet, vinyl, or laminate, and make sure to get rid of all old glue or staples.

Clean and Level the Subfloor

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to clear away dust, nails, dirt, or glue bits. Check for bumps or dips using a straight edge or a long level tool.

  • For high spots: sand them down.

  • For low spots: use a floor leveling compound to fill in and make it even.

A flat subfloor is key to stopping squeaks and keeping the floor strong for a long time.

Check for Moisture or Damage

Moisture can cause hardwood floors to fail. Use a moisture meter to check both the subfloor and your hardwood planks.

  • For wood subfloors: moisture should be below 12%.

  • For concrete subfloors: follow specific limits — usually below 4% with a calcium chloride test.

If moisture is too high, stop installation and fix the issue first.

Install Underlayment or Vapor Barrier (If Required)

Depending on your flooring type and subfloor, you might need an underlayment or vapor barrier:

  • Over concrete: use a vapor barrier or underlayment with moisture protection.

  • Over plywood or OSB: a rosin paper, felt underlayment, or foam pad might be suggested.

Follow the instructions to avoid issues and ensure the best performance. Lay the underlayment flat, without overlaps, and tape seams if needed.

Step 2: Plan Your Hardwood Layout

Pick Your Starting Wall

In most rooms, it’s good to lay hardwood planks parallel to the longest or main wall. This gives a nice flow and makes the room look bigger. If working in more than one room, think about how planks will fit through doorways.

Use a chalk line to make a straight line along your starting wall. This helps keep your first rows straight and the rest on track.

Let the Flooring Adjust

Before putting down the hardwood, let it adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity for at least 48 to 72 hours. Lay the boxes flat in the room and open the ends for air flow.

This allows the wood to settle to the room and helps prevent problems like expanding or warping later.

Lay Out a Few Rows

Put a few rows of boards down without attaching them to see how they look. This helps you:

  • Make sure the layout is balanced in the room

  • Avoid thin planks by the walls

  • Plan for things like vents or doors

Use this time to mix boards from different boxes so the floor has even color and grain.

Stagger Seams and Skip Patterns

For a natural look, stagger the plank ends by at least 6 to 8 inches in each row. Don’t repeat lengths or make “stair-step” or “H” shapes, which highlight the seams.

Tip: Use different plank lengths and switch them up across rows for a natural flow.

Figure Out Material (Add Extra for Waste)

Measure the room’s size (length × width) and add 10% for cutting mistakes and repairs.

If the room is odd-shaped or you lay planks diagonally, add 12–15% for waste.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

Before installing any boards, choose the best method for your hardwood type and subfloor. Each method needs specific tools and techniques based on your situation.

Nail-Down Installation (Most Common for Solid Hardwood)

This traditional way is great for solid hardwood on wooden subfloors like plywood. Use a flooring nailer or stapler to attach each board to the subfloor.

  • Best for: Solid hardwood on wood subfloors

  • Tools needed: Flooring nailer, mallet, air compressor

  • Pros: Very secure and long-lasting

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate (needs precision and right tools)

Glue-Down Installation

Mainly for engineered hardwood on concrete, this method uses adhesive on the subfloor to press boards into place.

  • Best for: Engineered hardwood on concrete

  • Tools needed: Flooring adhesive, notched trowel, floor roller

  • Pros: Strong bond and low profile

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate to high (messier and needs ventilation)

Floating Installation (Click-Lock)

This method is popular for DIYers with click-lock engineered hardwood. Planks lock together and “float” over underlayment without nails or glue.

  • Best for: Click-lock engineered hardwood on any flat surface

  • Tools needed: Spacers, tapping block, underlayment

  • Pros: Fast, clean, beginner-friendly

  • DIY Difficulty: Easy

Pro Tip: For solid hardwood on a wooden subfloor, nail-down is usually best. For engineered hardwood, most DIYers like floating floors because it’s simple and tool-free.

Step 4: Mark Guidelines and Snap Chalk Lines

Before you start, make sure to set a straight line to help with your installation.

Mark a Chalk Line by the Starting Wall
Find the starting wall, usually the longest one. Measure the width of one board, including space for expansion, and mark a chalk line parallel to the wall. This helps guide your first row.

Keep Rows Straight Using the Line
While placing the boards, line them up with the chalk line. This keeps the flooring straight and prevents it from moving out of line.

Leave a 1/2″ Gap for Expansion
Wood changes with humidity. Use spacers to leave a 1/2-inch gap between the wood and all walls or fixed objects to let it expand without bending.

Step 5: Lay the First Row of Planks

Trim Door Jambs if Needed
Before you put down the first plank, see if it needs to go under any door frames or trim. Use a saw to cut the bottom of the door frames so the planks fit under smoothly without spaces.

Start with Groove Side Facing the Wall
Place the first plank with the groove side toward the wall. This helps the next row’s tongue click into place easily. Begin on the longest, straight wall in the room to make sure the flooring stays even.

Secure the First Row
Depending on how you install:

  • Nail-down: Use a nailer to attach the boards to the subfloor through the tongue side.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue with a trowel and press each plank firmly.

  • Floating (click-lock): Angle the second plank into the first and click to lock.

Make sure the planks fit tightly without gaps along the seams.

Use Spacers to Maintain Expansion Gaps
Put 1/2″ spacers between the planks and the wall. This gap lets the wood naturally expand and contract with humidity and temperature changes, stopping it from buckling or warping over time.

Step 6: Install the Remaining Flooring

After the first row is set and straight, keep placing your hardwood planks one row at a time.

Stagger the End Joints for Stability
To keep the floor strong and looking natural, stagger the end joints of each row by at least 6 inches. Don’t line up joints in consecutive rows to avoid weakening the floor and creating patterns.

Use a Tapping Block for a Tight Fit
Put a tapping block against each plank’s edge and tap it gently with a mallet to close gaps. This makes sure each board fits snugly without damaging the tongue or groove.

Secure Boards Based on Your Method

  • Nail-down: Put nails through the tongue at a 45° angle every 6–8 inches.

  • Glue-down: Spread adhesive evenly and press planks down firmly.

  • Floating floor: Connect boards end-to-end and side-to-side.

Check for Level Frequently
Every few rows, use a level to make sure the floor stays flat. Adjust as needed to avoid long-term issues.

Step 7: Cut Boards to Fit Edges and Corners

When you get close to the walls or obstacles, cut the last planks to fit nicely.

Measure and Mark Carefully
Use a tape measure to find the exact space left, taking away 1/2″ for an expansion gap. Mark your plank with a pencil or chalk.

Use the Right Saw for the Job

  • Miter saw: Good for clean, straight cuts.

  • Jigsaw: Best for curved cuts around vents, door frames, or odd shapes.

Always cut on a stable surface and wear safety glasses to keep your eyes safe from dust and debris.

Maintain Expansion Gaps
Keep a 1/2″ gap between the flooring and all vertical surfaces like walls, pipes, and cabinetry. This helps the hardwood to expand and contract naturally without bending.

Step 8: Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips

Reattach Baseboards and Shoe Molding
After the hardwood is in place, make the room look tidy by putting back the baseboards around the edges. If there was shoe molding before, add that too for a neat finish.

Install Transition Strips
Use transition strips at doorways and where hardwood meets other floors like carpet. Choose T-moldings, reducers, or thresholds based on the height and type of the other floor.

Leave Room for Movement
When attaching trim, do not fix it directly to the hardwood. This allows for expansion and prevents buckling. Attach the trim to the wall or subfloor instead.

Step 9: Clean and Inspect Your Floor

After the floor is installed, clean it well and check to make sure it’s ready to use.

Sweep and Vacuum Well
Use a broom or vacuum with a soft brush to get rid of all sawdust and dirt. This helps you see the floor clearly and avoids scratches.

Look for Problems
See if there are gaps, uneven parts, or noises when you walk. Use a tapping block to fix any boards that are not aligned.

Let the Floor Rest
If you used glue, wait 24–48 hours before adding furniture or rugs so the glue can dry completely.

Pro Tips for a Successful Hardwood Installation

To get great results with hardwood flooring, prepare well and be precise. These tips can help you work better and avoid problems:

  • Always check for moisture with a moisture meter before you start — this stops future issues like cupping or buckling.

  • Wear knee pads to keep your joints safe during long hours of work, and make sure there’s good ventilation if using glue.

  • Check alignment every few rows to keep planks straight and even.

  • Work in small sections instead of rushing the whole room — this keeps the quality high.

  • Take your time on cuts. Neat, accurate cuts are key for tight seams and a professional look.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Hardwood

Even skilled DIYers can face problems if these common errors aren’t avoided:

  • Skipping the acclimation time can make the wood expand or shrink after it’s installed.

  • Ignoring subfloor moisture and flatness causes instability, noise, or gaps.

  • Not staggering seams weakens the structure and makes it look uneven.

  • Nailing too close to the edge of the plank can split or crack it.

  • Not using spacers leaves no room for growth, which can cause buckling.

DIY vs. Professional Hardwood Installation

Putting in your own hardwood floors can save you money and feel rewarding, but it’s not for everyone. Here’s how to see if you should do it yourself or hire experts.

DIY Pros:

  • Costs less overall

  • Control when and how fast you work

  • Feel proud of doing it yourself

DIY Cons:

  • Hard work and takes a lot of time

  • Needs careful planning and special tools

  • Fixing mistakes can be pricey

Professional Installation Pros:

  • Quick, expert work with little hassle

  • Handles floor prep and cleaning

  • Often comes with warranties

Professional Installation Cons:

  • Costs more for labor

  • Less control over timing

📊 Side-by-Side Comparison Table

Tool / MaterialSolid Hardwood (Nail-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Glue-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Floating/Click-Lock)Purpose
Tape Measure✔✔✔Measure layout and planks
Chalk Line✔✔✔Mark layout lines
Pry Bar✔✔✔Remove old flooring/baseboards
Moisture Meter✔✔✔Check subfloor moisture
Level✔✔✔Ensure even subfloor
SpacersOptional✔✔Maintain expansion gap at walls
Flooring Nailer / Stapler✔✘✘Secure solid planks to subfloor
Flooring Adhesive✘✔✘Glue engineered wood to subfloor
Trowel (for adhesive)✘✔✘Spread adhesive evenly
Click-Lock Installation Kit✘✘✔Includes tapping block, pull bar, spacers
Miter Saw✔✔✔Make crosscuts on planks
Jigsaw / Oscillating Tool✔✔✔Trim around obstacles
Safety Glasses✔✔✔Eye protection while cutting
Knee Pads
FeatureDIY InstallationProfessional Installation
Average Cost per Sq Ft$3 – $8 (materials + tools)$7 – $18 (includes labor)
Best ForBudget-conscious, handy homeownersBusy homeowners, large or complex jobs
Time CommitmentSeveral days or weekends1–2 days (typical)
Risk of MistakesModerate to highLow
Tool Investment Required✔❌ (provided by installer)
SatisfactionHigh (if done well)High (with professional finish)

👉 For a full breakdown of costs, methods, and scenarios, visit our Hardwood Flooring Cost Guide