Everything You’ll Need
| Tool/Material | Laminate Flooring | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Utility Knife | ✔ | Cuts underlayment and trims laminate edges |
| Tape Measure | ✔ | Measures room size and plank cuts |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | Makes straight cuts and aligns |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | Removes baseboards or old flooring |
| Spacers | ✔ | Keeps space along walls |
| Tapping Block | ✔ | Taps planks together gently |
| Non-Marring Hammer | ✔ | Works with tapping block for tight fits |
| Laminate Cutter or Saw | ✔ | Cuts planks to size |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | Protects knees during installation |
| Level | ✔ | Ensures floor is even |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | Marks straight lines |
| Underlayment Roll | ✔ (if required) | Adds cushion and soundproofing |
| Jigsaw or Oscillating Tool | ✔ | Cuts around pipes and doors |
Step 1: Choose a Layout Pattern
Before putting in your laminate flooring, think about how you want the planks to be arranged. Laminate may not have as many pattern choices as vinyl, but your layout can still greatly change how the room looks and feels.
Here are some popular and effective patterns for laminate flooring:
Straight Lay Pattern (Most Common)
This is the easiest and most common option.
Planks are put parallel to the longest wall or toward natural light. This gives a clean, classic look, perfect for most rooms.
Diagonal Pattern
Gives a more stylish, high-end appearance.
Planks are set at a 45-degree angle to the walls, making small rooms seem bigger or adding interest to square spaces. This may need more cutting and extra materials.
Random/Variable Stagger
Planks are laid in a staggered way, changing the plank lengths each row.
This method copies the natural look of hardwood and stops patterns or seams from lining up.
Herringbone or Chevron (Advanced/Pro)
Certain laminate floors are made for herringbone or chevron designs.
These beautiful layouts need exact cuts and more planning. Not all laminate brands have planks for these patterns.
Step 2: Prepare the Space
Take Off Baseboards and Old Floors
First, take off baseboards and old floors to get a clean area.
Use a pry bar to gently remove baseboards — go slow to keep walls safe and reuse the trim.
To change carpet, cut it in pieces with a utility knife and pull it up.
For tile, vinyl, or wood, follow the right way to take them out.
Clean and Check the Subfloor
Sweep and vacuum well to clear away dust and dirt.
Look for cracks, dips, or bumps. Use a leveling compound to fill low spots and sand high spots. A smooth subfloor is key for good laminate flooring.
Put Down Underlayment
Most laminate floors need underlayment unless it is already attached.
Underlayment provides cushion, cuts noise, and fixes small subfloor issues.
Roll it out over the subfloor, making sure edges meet without overlapping. Tape the seams well.
✅ Pro Tip: If putting it on concrete, think about adding a moisture barrier under the underlayment.
Step 3: Choose an Installation Method
Laminate flooring is made for people who like to do projects themselves and uses an easy way to install: Click-Lock (Floating Floor). This type of flooring usually does not need glue or sticky methods.
Click-Lock (Floating Installation)
The Click-Lock system, also known as tongue-and-groove or interlocking, is very popular and easy for DIY projects. The planks click together, making a strong hold without nails or glue.
This way of installing lets the floor “float” above the subfloor, so it can expand and shrink with temperature and humidity changes.
Key Advantages:
No adhesives required — easier cleanup and less stuff needed.
DIY-friendly — great for beginners.
Versatile — works well over different types of subfloors, like concrete and plywood.
Installation Tips:
Always leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room using spacers. This prevents buckling as the flooring expands and contracts.
Follow the maker’s instructions for how to align and click the planks together.
Use a tapping block and pull bar to make sure seams are tight without harming the plank edges.
Step 4: Lay the First Row
Trim the Short Tongue Edge of the First Plank
Start by cutting off the short tongue edge of your first plank. This helps it fit snug against the wall for a neater look. Use a utility knife for thin laminates or a circular saw or miter saw for thick planks.
Position the First Plank 1/4 Inch from the Wall
Place the first plank by the wall, leaving a 1/4-inch gap between the plank and the wall. This gap is important because laminate flooring changes size with temperature and humidity.
Insert Spacers to Maintain the Expansion Gap
Put spacers between the wall and the flooring to keep the gap even as you lay the floor. Keep using these spacers all around the room.
Stagger End Joints for Stability and Appearance
When you start the second row, cut the first plank so it’s at least 6 inches shorter than the first plank of the last row. This staggers the joints, making the floor stronger and look more natural.
Tip: Don’t line up joints across rows — it can weaken the floor and make it look fake.
Step 5: Cutting Planks to Fit
Straight Cuts — Score and Snap
For straight cuts (like trimming the end of a plank):
Use a utility knife to make a line along the cut mark.
Break the plank along the line for a neat edge (best for thin laminates).
For thicker laminate, use a laminate cutter, circular saw, or miter saw for clean cuts.
Irregular Cuts — Around Corners and Obstacles
When cutting around door frames, corners, or odd shapes:
Use a jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool.
These tools help make curved or angled cuts that regular saws can’t.
Cutting Around Pipes
Measure the diameter of the pipe and add 1 inch for space to expand.
Drill a hole in the plank for the pipe.
Make a cut from the hole to the plank’s edge.
After installing, seal around the pipe with a bead of silicone caulk to cover gaps and keep moisture out.
Tight Spaces — Under Door Jambs
Use a jamb saw (or undercut saw) to trim the bottom of the door frame.
This lets you slide the laminate plank underneath for a neat look.
Pro Tip: Always wear safety goggles and work slowly with power tools to prevent splinters or damage.
| Cutting Task | Recommended Tool(s) | Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cuts (length/width) | Utility knife (thin laminate) Laminate cutter or miter saw (standard) | Score and snap for thin laminate Use a saw for clean, straight cuts |
| Irregular cuts (corners, curves) | Jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool | Mark the shape, cut slowly following the line |
| Around pipes | Drill + Jigsaw or Hole saw | Drill a hole + cut a slit to the edge, leave ½” expansion gap |
| Tight spaces (door jambs) | Jamb saw (undercut saw) | Undercut the jamb to slide the plank underneath |
| Final fitting/trimming | Utility knife or laminate cutter | Trim small excess for a snug fit |
Step 6: Laying Subsequent Rows
Angle the Planks into Place
Start each row by putting the tongue of the plank into the groove of the last row. Lower the plank gently until it clicks or fits well.
Use a Tapping Block and Non-Marring Hammer
For a snug fit, use a tapping block with a non-marring hammer or mallet.
Put the tapping block at the plank’s edge.
Tap gently to close gaps between planks.
Never use a standard hammer directly on the laminate as it might damage the edges.
Maintain the Staggered Pattern
Keep staggering the ends by at least 6 inches in each row for stability and a natural look.
Check Expansion Gaps
Use spacers along walls to keep a 1/4-inch expansion gap during the installation.
Step 7: Finishing the Installation
Install Transition Strips
After placing all planks, put transition strips at doorways and where laminate meets other floors. These strips:
Make a smooth, safe shift.
Keep laminate edges safe.
Follow maker’s instructions for type and setup.
Transitioning to Other Flooring
Choose the right transition type:
T-molding for floors of the same height.
Reducer strips for moving to lower surfaces like vinyl.
Attach strips to the subfloor, not directly to laminate, leaving a 1/4-inch gap to avoid buckling.
Reinstall Baseboards
Put back baseboards, attaching them to the wall, not the floor, so laminate can move freely beneath.
Allow the Floor to Settle
Before putting furniture back or walking a lot on the floor:
Wait at least 48 hours for the laminate to get used to the room’s conditions.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Laminate Flooring
Installing in High-Moisture Areas
Laminate floors aren’t good for places with too much water, like full bathrooms or laundry rooms. Water can get into the seams and cause swelling or warping.
Using a Hammer Directly on Planks
Don’t hit the laminate directly with a hammer. Use a tapping block or pull bar to secure planks gently without harming the edges.
Overlapping End Joints
Avoid lining up or overlapping end joints of planks in nearby rows. This makes the floor weak and can lead to gaps or uneven spots. Stagger the joints by at least 6 inches.
Skipping the Expansion Gap
Not leaving a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room can cause buckling when the floor expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity.
Walking on the Floor Too Soon
Let the laminate floor settle for 48 hours after installation before walking on it or placing heavy furniture.
Tips for a Successful Laminate Flooring Installation
- Measure Right and Plan for Extra
Measure your room well and buy 10% more laminate flooring for cuts, mistakes, and future fixes. Check Planks Before You Start
Look at each plank for problems or damage before using it. Set aside any bad ones to keep a good finish.Wear Knee Pads for Comfort
Use knee pads to keep your knees safe, especially for long jobs. This helps you work better.Go Slow and Steady
Take your time with each step, from the first row to cutting planks. Going too fast can cause bad fits and mistakes.Keep the Right Expansion Gap
Always leave a 1/4-inch gap around the edges to stop buckling when the laminate moves.
DIY vs. Professional Laminate Flooring Installation
Many homeowners pick laminate flooring because it’s easy for DIY projects. Whether you do it yourself or hire help depends on your skills, tools, and project difficulty.
DIY Installation
✅ Pros:
Save money on labor costs (usually $2 to $5 per sq ft).
Work at your own pace.
Ideal for small, simple rooms.
❌ Cons:
Need basic tools (spacers, tapping block, saws).
Mistakes like wrong expansion gaps can cause problems.
Takes time, especially for big or oddly shaped areas.
Professional Installation
✅ Pros:
Quick, accurate installation.
Experts manage subfloor prep, tricky cuts, and transitions.
Often comes with a warranty.
❌ Cons:
Extra cost — usually adds $2 to $5 per sq ft for labor.
Typically, laminate flooring installation (materials + labor) costs between $4 and $12 per square foot based on style and difficulty. For more details, view our Laminate Flooring Cost Guide.
| Installation Method | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $1.50 – $4 (materials only) | Save on labor Flexible schedule Good for small areas | Time-consuming Requires tools & skills Mistakes can be costly |
| Professional Installation | $4 – $12 (materials + labor) | Fast & precise Warranty often included Handles complex cuts & transitions | Higher upfront cost |
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Laminate Flooring Installation Project?
If you want a nice, strong floor but don’t want to do it yourself, our expert team can help with laminate flooring.
We take care of everything — from getting the subfloor ready to aligning the planks perfectly — so you can relax and enjoy great results. We’ll help you pick the best laminate style and underlayment for your room and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and check if we serve your area.
